Supermarine Spitfire NightfighterMagnificent Flying Machines
At a Glance
- Power System - Rubber Free Flight
- Wingspan - 18" (460mm)
- Approximate AUW - 25g
- Difficulty - Beginner
SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE NIGHTFIGHTER - THE ORIGINAL STEALTH AIRCRAFT
The Spitfire was designed by Reginald Mitchell of The Supermarine Aviation Works and is arguably the most elegant but deadly aircraft of World War 2. The beautiful fuselage curves, the distinctive elliptical wings, plus its legendary service in action, make it one of the most recognisable and loved aircraft in the world. The prototype first flew from Eastleigh Aerodrome, near Southampton, England in March 1936.
The Spitfire was an advanced aircraft when first designed and unlike its similarly Merlin-engined stablemate the Hawker Hurricane, used new complicated monocoque construction techniques. As a result of these complexities and production difficulties at Supermarine, the move from prototype to full production was slow and problematic. However, once this was overcome, the Spitfire was produced in huge numbers. This is in part due to the more advanced initial design, which was able to be constantly developed and improved to increase performance, ironically the very thing that hindered it in the early days.
Production only ceased in 1948, making it the only allied aircraft to be manufactured for the entirety of the war.
This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally constructed, rubber powered, free flight model of a Spitfire Night fighter. This kit includes the materials (other than paints) to complete the authentic scheme of an all black night fighter Spitfire that served in the 111 Squadron that flew from RAF Debden in 1941.
Construction of the model from this kit uses the traditional method of "stick and tissue", that consists of a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework), covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks are built over a plan that is printed at the exact scale of the model, which is in essence a real engineering drawing. Power is provided by rubber strip motor that is wound up before flight.
Free flight means just that - once the model is launched, it is on its own. It must follow a predetermined flight path established when the model is initially adjusted for flight or "trimmed". This type of traditional building technique and flying requires a degree of patience and skill, but is extremely rewarding. Typically for a small model and in the spirit of the traditional kits, profiles are simplified and adjusted from the original and a relatively large propeller is used. This is done so that the model is light and stable enough to fly on its own, is simple in construction and can work with the rubber motor. These adjustments have been done with care and sensitivity so that the shape and spirit of the original aircraft is preserved as much as possible.
Also in the spirit of the traditional kits, additional items required to build the model are things that can be found in the kitchen drawer or are easily available on the high street.
Three balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts and strip wood.
PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
One 150mm diameter plastic propeller.
One pre-bent motor hook and shaft.
Three low friction plastic nose bushings - one for the propeller and two for the undercarriage wheels.
One vacuum formed canopy and spinner.
Piano wire for the main undercarriage and tail wheel legs.
One motor peg (cocktail stick or toothpick).
Rubber motor strip.
Tissue to cover the model.
Parts reference sheet (W), full size summary plan sheet (X), scheme diagram sheet (Y) and scheme markings (Z) printed on lightweight paper.
SPITFIRE NIGHTFIGHTER ORIGINAL INSTRUCTION BOOKLET COPY
Download a spare copy of the instruction booklet included in your kit here:Spitfire Nightfighter Instruction Booklet
SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE NIGHT FIGHTER MARKINGS SHEET
Click the link below to download a pdf version of the markings sheet included in the Spitfire Night Fighter kit.
The markings sheet should fit onto a single A4 page and may be printed onto your own paper or decal transfer sheet.
SPITFIRE PATTERNS SHEET
Click the link below to download a pdf version of the patterns for acetate and paper/card parts originally drawn on the plan.
This will save you from having to cut into your beautiful plan!
Built, filmed, edited and produced by the amazing Rob Brennan
The illustrated instructions below are available for you to view, download or print out for free.
They do not replace the instruction book but can be used alongside it.
We hope you find them useful!
Please note the illustrated build was for a White Spitfire not the Nightfighter. The build is identical, with the only changes being the colour of the tissue and the markings.
MAIN PARTS & FRAMES BUILDING SCHEDULE
The Centre Section [Download]
The Main Wing Panels [Download]
Completing the Wings [Download]
The Tail Plane (Stabiliser) [Download]
The Fin & Rudder [Download]
The Fuselage [Download]
The Nose Block [Download]
Finishing the Fuselage [Download]
The Wheels, Undercarriage & Spinner [Download]
Radiator, Oil Cooler, Exhausts, Air Inlet & Fillet Pieces [Download]
The Fin, Rudder & Tail Plane [Download]
The Wings [Download]
The Fuselage [Download]
- 18" (460mm)
What a stunning model this turned out to be. I loved every stage of the build and learned a good deal along the way. I'll have to build another to fly. I'm not risking this one!
Recieved this as a present nights drawing in so thought I would give it a go. Used to make balsa kits as a kid but how things have moved on ! Really impressed with the quality & content of the kit, the laser cut boards add to the ease and fun building this. It really does look like the box image. Enjoyed making so much that I'm now making the Sopworth Camel. Also didn't realise about the website, back up videos and all the other support - well done guys.
Having not made a model like this for 20+ years, I was not sure what to expect, but everything is easier than it used to be. The laser cut parts means there is no doubt on the size and shape, so it is relatively easy to assemble. My plane did not fly, but probably due to my first attempt not being quite accurate enough getting things square. I am now buying 2 more different kits to have another go. My missus doesn't understand me. [originally posted on our old website 04/10/2016]